The village of McGregor | One for the fairy tales

Take the road to nowhere and explore the quaint village of McGregor in the Western Cape - 2 hours from Cape Town and 20 minutes from Robertson - a hidden retreat and secret gem offering a perfect blend of history, charm, scenic surrounds, quirky characters and a touch of fairy tale whimsy.

South Africa is full of small towns that for decades (and for many of us) have gone unnoticed and without much press. Waiting to be explored, many of these dusty Karoo outposts, bucolic Midlands hamlets and Klein Karoo farming dorpies, dotted across our diverse landscape, are an unexpected delight for travellers. Since our Route 62 road trip, my travel knowledge and wonder in exploring a few of these pretty towns has made me realise that each has its own historical backstory, eclectic characters and captivating tales.  

I had heard of McGregor, but it hadn’t yet made it onto my Wanderlust wishlist. (Perhaps because it's on the road to nowhere?). But then, as a recent ‘inkommer’ to Montagu, I needed to see a guy about a website and he happens to work from home in McGregor. (He also seems to play an integral role in the annual September McGregor Whisky festival).

As I made my way, I tried to temper my expectations. The drive there was scenic; a sparkling river, rambling vineyards and the looming Riviersonderend mountains keeping you company en route. But to be perfectly honest, once I crossed the impressive ‘Welcome to Mcgregor Bridge,’ I was a little disappointed. 

First impressions? The entrance to the town was a tad ‘tired,’ giving it a lost-in-time, forlorn feeling that seemed to be the pervasive mood. (Probably best not to judge a book by its cover). Of course, it could merely have been the fact that it was a Tuesday morning in late Autumn. It could also have been that it was 08h30 and I needed to get with the slow living programme that is mandatory in these 'Platteland' towns. 

But then something happened…

Being a bit early, I stopped in at The Blend Coffee Shop & Deli (a little shop of needful things) for some Truth coffee; guaranteed to perk up anyone’s mood. 

Then, after seeing the guy about the website, I figured I might as well explore the village (with another cup of Truth Coffee to go). After all, he and his family have lived in McGregor for 16 years, so there must be something special about the place. 

Here’s the thing about the sleepy village of McGregor: the more time you spend wandering about, the more it grows on you; almost like a bewitching magic spell is released. (Was there something in the coffee?). 

The main drag (lined with oak trees and host to the impressive Dutch Reformed Church) and the side streets are a picturesque display of Cape Victorian and Cape Karoo architecture plus enchanting whitewashed thatched cottages with rose gardens and storybook details. 

There is a comfortable feeling in small towns. It is salubrious -Andie McDowell.

As the quirky characters started emerging, I felt a gentle shift to a time gone by. (I did wonder if I might bump into Snow White). The real locals I did bump into were friendly, in a slightly reserved way. (I got the feeling they may be a wary of strangers as I think they’re quite protective of this little hidden patch they call ‘home’). 

‘They’ say McGregor is the place writers come to finish their books. As it’s literally the end of the road, it does have an ethereal ‘disconnected’ feel from reality; the perfect muse for writers. (Perhaps Charles Perrault, author of Sleeping Beauty, spent some time here before finishing his magical tale).  

I say, writer or not, McGregor is a peaceful village at the end of the road ready to charm all who cross its threshold. 

I write about people in small towns; I don't write about people living in big cities. My kind of storytelling depends upon people that have time to talk to each other. -Lee Smith

Since my first time visiting a guy about a website, I have taken the road to McGregor thrice. Twice for Sunday lunch at Bessie’s Backerei at Temenos Retreat (now a firm favourite), and once to visit the annual McGregor Book Fair organised by the Eseltjiesrus Donkey Sanctuary. (Just an aside, on your way out, it’s definitely worth popping in at the Donkey Sanctuary which is nestled in the most tranquil, relaxed setting; kids will love it). 

For me, McGregor is a whimsical and enchanting ‘once-upon-a-time’ place that you feel satisfied having visited and that leaves you with a small hankering to return. 

Reminiscent of the blues rock song, 'Tulsa Time,' every street and quaint cottage whisper tales of history and heritage, inviting you to slow down and spend some time absorbing the essence and spirit of the village. (You may even meet an author finishing their book).

McGregor - with its enchanting allure and rich history - embodies the quintessential charm of South Africa's small towns. Each visit reveals more of its magic, from the local characters and picturesque architecture to the sense of timelessness that envelops you as you wander its streets. It's a place where the pace of life slows, allowing for moments of reflection and connection, much like the town itself. 

But, as with most good stories about a place, there’s a lot more to say about a visit to McGregor. For now, I'll leave that to others to share their McGregor hiking experiences, craft whisky tastings and music concert stories.

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