One year in Montagu | My loves (& not-so-loves)

A personal reflection on one year of living in Montagu; sharing the joys of small-town living in the Klein Karoo, from the beauty of seasonal changes to the warmth of the community, alongside a couple of challenges of country-town life.

Exactly a year ago - on the 17th November 2023 - this sign welcomed us for a second time. But on this occasion it was as residents rather than tourists. (Be warned: a Route 62 road trip with a stopover in Montagu could potentially put a ‘spell’ on you). 

As we have made this slow-living Klein Karoo town our home, we have come to feel a sense of belonging. With every smile, greeting or prescribed ‘knik van die kop’, this platteland dorpie has quickly settled itself in our hearts and become our town. 

In exchanging the City of Gold for a country town, I’ve discovered there’s a lot to love (and a few ‘not-so-loves’) about living in Montagu.

What follows is my personal reflection on why Montagu is special to us and why living here for only a year has significantly impacted our lifestyle and understanding of community. 

But first, a little backstory 

Somewhere deep down, the storied roots of my sheep-farming Oupa in Cradock instilled in me a quiet but persistent pull towards a ‘village’ way of life. The desire for a small-town community and a taste of ‘farm life’ has always lingered just beneath the surface, waiting to become part of my own story. 

For me - in this season of my life - Montagu has become that place, and its people, that community. (My Oupa would also be very proud of my much-improved Afrikaans)

The protective presence and changing shadows of the Langeberg mountain range, the beauty of two rivers converging, the ever-changing wonder of agricultural farmlands, vineyards, orchards and olive groves, and the delicate aroma of indigenous fynbos, make this little spot in the Klein Karoo a place that is full of seasonal surprises, scenic spoils and community moments. 

Let’s start with ‘my loves’

1. The seasonal colours and farming cycles

I mentioned my ancestral farming roots. Even though I never got to experience growing up on a farm, the accessibility of farmands and bounty of local farm produce in and around Montagu have proved a wonderful alternative. 

• In summer, the vineyards are green as far as the eye can see. November is apricot season. December and January are berry, peach and plum season. These summer fruits are available directly from the farmer or at local farmer’s markets and ‘padstals’.  

• In autumn, our Mediterranean-type climate heralds mild weather and harvest time: grapes for local wine production, olives (for table olives and olive oil), as well as late season fruits such as apples and pears. 

• In winter, the pruned vines turn brown, the rains come, the temperatures drop fast, home fires are lit, flaming aloes line the roadside, the canola fields put on a grand show, and snow dusts the mountain tops. 

• In spring, new life emerges: the delicate pastel pinks and whites of blossoms dance on the fruit trees, roses bloom among vines and in gardens, and vibrant mass plantings of roadside cannas do their thing. It’s breathtaking to behold.

2. The resilient and delicate beauty of fynbos

The indigenous fynbos of the Klein Karoo region - with its tiny blooms and earthy fragrances - thrives in the unique landscape of the area in and around Montagu. Rooted in the Cape Floral Kingdom, each fynbos species contributes to an intricate tapestry of colour, texture, and scent that shifts with the seasons. Surrounded by this landscape is an invitation to pause and breathe, and I have come to appreciate the extraordinary beauty and usefulness of these plants.

3. The accessibility of local exploring

Unbeknown to many, Route 62 is the longest wine route in the world. Within a 20-minute drive from Montagu you have access to multiple vineyards for wine tastings, cellar tours, or vineyard restaurants that offer breakfast, coffee or lunch.

Here’s a taster: Jan Harmsgat, Bonnievale Winery, Weltevrede Wine Estate, Zandvliet, Arrabella, Excelsior, Van Loveren, Viljoensdrift, Bon Courage, Springfield, and Kranskop. (That’s just for starters). 

Within a 40 minute drive from Montagu, you can find yourself in quirky Barrydale, historic Swellendam or fairytale McGregor. And within an hour and a half, you can be walking on the beach. 

4. The activities to get involved in 

Don’t ever believe the rumour that nothing happens in small towns. From Wednesday night movies at the small local cinema, the weekly Saturday morning village market, the local lawn bowls club (featuring young, old and Rob’s dog), and monthly trail runs, to Tuinbouklubs, music concerts in the nature garden, scheduled educational talks, Friday milktart mornings at Joubert House, book launches, and a weekend art meander, there’s always something of interest to add to your diary. 

And best of all? Most, if not all activities, are within walking distance. 

5. The writing and photography opportunities 

As a writer-cum-blogger-cum-photographer, moving to Montagu has awakened a wider creativity for me. With something always going on, I am frequently inspired to put pen to paper and celebrate our little community as well as the broader local travel opportunities. 

I consider it a way of preserving and keeping a record of a small-town’s life cycles and its quirky stories.

One day, if my grandchildren want to know about their generational local roots, some of my musings will hopefully invite them to appreciate this place and the bigger story that they are part of as South Africans. 

6. The privilege of supporting local 

One of the most refreshing aspects of living in Montagu is being surrounded by independent, family-run businesses. Unlike a big city’s predictable hustle and bustle, mall crowds and big-chain stores, here shops may close for lunch, coffee shops and restaurants may keep quirky hours, or shut down when the owners take a well-deserved break. 

As we’ve gotten to know these local business owners - and they us - a special connection has grown that I never really experienced as a city girl among the bright lights.

There’s also a genuine pride in ‘supporting local’; farmers and artisans who pour their hearts into every item they create. Buying directly from your local butcher, baker or candlestick maker (and patisserie chef/chocolatier) is one of the memorable and significant traditions of small town living. 

7. The preservation of the town’s architectural heritage

Montagu is known as one of the best preserved Victorian villages in South Africa. This well-preserved architecture is one of the immediate characteristics that cause visitors to wander around and imagine themselves living in a bygone era. 

It's truly special to see homes thoughtfully restored, with careful attention to preserving architectural principles and decorative details from different historical periods.

In fact, the intersection of Long and Church Streets showcases four of the architectural styles prevalent in Montagu: Cape Dutch, Cape Georgian, Cape Victorian and Cape Edwardian. The other styles you will find on a wander around town are Cape Karoo and Cape Vernacular. 

8. The unique sense of community spirit

For some, this town is where their stories began; for others, it’s a new chapter, having moved here for all kinds of reasons. As people come and go, settle down, raise families, or retire, there’s a warm, welcoming spirit that binds the community, especially for those who embrace local life and respect the rich diversity, history, and traditions that have shaped this place since 1850.

Maybe it’s just my romantic side, but one of my favourite parts of small-town life is hearing the church bell ring out on a Sunday morning. For me, it perfectly captures the essence of classic 'platteland' living.

9. The rhythms of daily life 

Slow living is a far cry from lazy living. It’s about staying engaged, using your skills, and truly immersing yourself in the energetic heartbeat of village life. 

Whether you bring years of formal training, entrepreneurial flair, business savvy, artisanal skills, or hands-on experience, all of it adds value to a small town like Montagu. Here, whether you’re still working, freelancing, or easing into retirement, there are countless ways to expand your horizons and connect with the local community.

You have the chance to give back; maybe by volunteering at seasonal events like the annual Herb Festival, lending a hand with the Montagu Cares feeding scheme, reading with primary school kids, or sharing your musical talents with a local choir.

These are the moments where real, meaningful connections unfold; when community becomes more than just a word but a way of life.

Now for my ‘not-so-loves’

1. The creepy-crawlies (+ baboons & snakes)

I clearly read ‘Moving to the Platteland’ with rose-tinted glasses, because the authors, Julienne du Toit and Chris Marais, dedicated an entire chapter to the goggas and insects that call the Great Karoo and Klein Karoo their home.  

To put it bluntly, I’m not a fan. They ALL give me the heebie-jeebies!

Beyond the ubiquitous mosquitoes plus a few resilient cockroaches, we got a baptism of fire with summertime midges who belong in a horror movie with their four-pronged bite marks that leave blistering welts and even attack through clothing! 

This was followed by a ‘plague’ (not an exaggeration) of loud crickets in March, and a host of carpenter bees in August. (These ‘giant’ dive-bombing fuzzy black bees almost had us calling in the fumigator!). But, a eucalyptus and sweet orange essential oil spray seems to have resulted in a truce between me and the carpenter bees; for now.

Every now and then, bold baboons trespass, but there's a Whatsapp group warning residents of their imminent presence and location. 

A year on, I am armed and dangerous. Every citronella variant of insect spray, cream or candle is within easy reach; indoors and out. (And should a snake dare come onto our property, I have Gerrie, the local ‘snake charmer’ on speed-dial!)

2. The extreme heat

The blistering summer heat this year was intense; our first without a swimming pool. January and February hit us with record highs of 40-42°C, and I’m seriously considering a small blow-up pool. 

The last time I can recall such high temperatures was when I was in Primary school in Pietermaritzburg. But as a child, weather anomalies were not bothersome; they were occasions for adventure. (School was cancelled).

Thankfully, Montagu’s early settlers knew a thing or two about staying cool. Their homes were thoughtfully designed to mitigate the heat: shaded porches welcome cooler air, thick walls insulate the interior, and patios are covered with leafy vines. As late afternoons bring a gentle mountain breeze - nature’s own air conditioner - relaxing on the porch becomes a soothing retreat. (As long as you don’t forget the citronella candle and bug spray!)

After one year of living in Montagu, I can honestly say that settling into this pretty little town has been easy. 

An elusive sense of community has found its expression in the Klein Karoo where place and people have merged to make me feel at home. 

A year ago, Montagu welcomed us as newcomers or ‘inkommers.’ A year later, even though we still carry that title, we feel fully embraced by this special town.

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